Livorno - The best restaurants in town

Anyone dining in Livorno should definitely try one dish: Cacciucco, the city's hearty fish stew. Alongside this, try red mullet prepared Livorno-style, salt cod, or, for a quick bite, the "Cinque e cinque" with chickpea mustard. Here you'll find typical dishes and a small selection of restaurants whose operation we have reviewed for 2026.

What to eat in Livorno

cacciucco

Cacciucco is a thick stew made with a variety of fish, squid, and shellfish in a tomato sauce with garlic and a touch of chili, served on toasted bread rubbed with garlic. Because it's quite elaborate, it's not always on the menu every day – ask when making a reservation. One portion is usually a substantial main course.

The people of Livorno insist on the spelling with five "c's"—"Caciucco," as it's spelled further north along the coast, is frowned upon here. Legend has it that the dish originated from the fish that the fishermen hadn't sold at the market . The types of fish used still depend on the day's catch: crustaceans, squid, octopus, and firm-fleshed rockfish, which are added to the broth one after the other. Locals often enjoy a glass of red wine with it, perhaps from Bolgheri.

Triglie alla livornese and cod

Red mullet (triglie) is braised in a sauce of tomatoes, garlic, and parsley in Livorno. Also typical is salt cod, or baccalà alla livornese, with tomatoes, often served with potatoes.

Cinque e cinque and Ponce

The "Cinque e cinque" is a bread roll with warm chickpea torte (torta di ceci), often with eggplant – the name recalls the former price of five plus five centesimi. To finish, people in Livorno like to drink a "Ponce alla livornese", a hot coffee with rum.

The Ponce is a Livornese take on the English punch from the 17./18 century: sugar and rum – traditionally a cheap, caramelised "Rumme" – are heated and topped up with a ristretto. On top goes a strip of lemon zest, the "vela" (sail); it is served in a small glass, the "gottino". One variation is mixed with Sassolino (anise liqueur). You can get the torta di ceci in the small torterie and pizzerias scattered across the whole city, to take away.

The best neighborhoods to eat in Livorno

Livorno's restaurants are concentrated in a few areas: around the market hall, along the canals of the Venezia Nuova district, in Borgo dei Cappuccini and on the waterfront promenade towards Ardenza and Antignano.

Central Market (Food Market)

The market hall on Via Buontalenti was opened in 1894 according to plans by the engineer Angiolo Badaloni, modeled after the market halls in Paris. It is considered the largest covered market in Italy; under its roof, around 200 stalls offer fish, meat, fruit, vegetables, bread, wine, and spices. It's best to go in the morning. For food, in addition to the Osteria Alle Vettovaglie, the market offers Caffè Mercato (breakfast, aperitifs, light lunches) and the MaCa Family Bistrot, among other options. The Torteria da Gagarin is just a few steps away.

Venezia Nuova and the Fossi

The Venezia Nuova district took shape at the beginning of the 18 century; its canals (fossi) were used to transport goods to the harbour. Today, osterie and bars sit along the "scali" right by the water – ideal for aperitivo and dinner. Every year in August, the "Effetto Venezia" festival turns the district into a large stage with concerts, street art and food stalls.

Borgo dei Cappuccini and Piazza Mazzini

The old working-class and fishing quarter between the city center and the harbor is the place to go for down-to-earth, unpretentious seafood. Several trattorias are located close together here, including Cantina Senese and Osteria del Mare.

Lungomare: Terrazza Mascagni, Ardenza and Antignano

Restaurants with sea views line Viale Italia. A stroll across the Terrazza Mascagni – some 8.700 square meters of checkerboard paving made from over 34.000 tiles, laid in 1925 – is the perfect prelude to dinner. Further south in Ardenza and Antignano are two of the Michelin-recommended seafood restaurants. For swimming spots on the Livorno coast, see our Tuscany beaches page.

Restaurants in Livorno (as of 2026)

The following establishments are listed in current online directories and on their own websites for 2026. Opening hours and days closed are subject to change – please check before visiting and make a reservation for the evening.

Local	Location	Address	Typical for
The Submarine	center	Via Terrazzini 50	Cacciucco, Trattoria
La Barcarola	near train station	Viale Carducci 39	Fish, since 1935
Melafumo	center	Via Mentone 78	Cacciucco, Osteria
Cantina Senese	Capuchin Village	Borgo dei Cappuccini 95	Livornese home cooking
Osteria del Mare	Capuchin Village	Borgo dei Cappuccini 5	simple fish dishes
All Vettovaglie	Central Market	in the market hall	Lunch, market cuisine
Torteria da Gagarin	on the market	Cardinal Street 24	Five and five
Azzighe	Venice/Fossi	Pontine Docks 19	modern Tuscan cuisine
Seaport	Lungomare	Viale Italia 89	classic Cacciucco
Oscar	Ardence	Via Franchini 78	Fish, Michelin Guide
Nanni's	Antignano	Piazza Bartolommei 1	creative fish cuisine, Michelin Guide

The Submarine

A small, traditional trattoria at Via Terrazzini 50, known as a "Cacciuccheria" – perfect for your first cacciucco. Simple decor, focusing on Livorno seafood cuisine.

La Barcarola

Ristorante La Barcarola at Viale Carducci 39 has been run by the same family since 1935. The menu features cacciucco and fish dishes that change depending on the day's catch; there is a covered terrace and a large wine selection.

Cantina Senese

An old wine bar in the working-class neighborhood of Borgo dei Cappuccini (number 95), run by the Sanna family since 1988. They serve traditional Livornese cuisine with a focus on fish – simple, down-to-earth, and popular with locals.

All Vettovaglie in the Mercato Centrale

The Osteria is located in the heart of the historic market hall and cooks with ingredients from the market stalls. It's ideal for lunch after browsing the market; on some evenings, there are events with music. Learn more about the market on our page Livorno – Port City on the Tuscan Coast.

Torteria da Gagarin

A classic snack bar serving "Cinque e cinque" and Torta di ceci at Via del Cardinale 24, near the market, open Tuesday to Saturday (according to their website). Perfect for a quick lunch break.

Melafumo

An informal osteria at Via Mentana 78, specializing entirely in fish. Gambero Rosso praised their rich, dark cacciucco with subtle spiciness in 2025 – a good tip if Sottomarino is fully booked.

Osteria del Mare

A small, simple fish trattoria at Borgo dei Cappuccini 5, not far from the harbor. They serve simple fish dishes and coastal classics, including cacciucco.

Azzighe – Osteria a metà

A lively osteria with only one dining room on the canals (Scali del Pontino 19), recommended in the 2026 Michelin Guide. The cuisine combines fish and meat, Livorno recipes and creative ideas – such as "Cacciucchino" cappelletti, a playful take on the fish stew.

Seaport

Fish restaurant at Viale Italia 89, on the waterfront promenade. The Cacciucco is prepared here according to the classic Livornese recipe, without any modern reinterpretations.

Oscar (Ardenza) and Nannini (Antignano)

Two fish restaurants in the south of the city, both listed in the 2026 Michelin Guide: Oscar (Via Franchini 78) stands for traditional, simple dishes made with very good ingredients. Nannini (Piazza Bartolommei 1) is run by two brothers and cooks more creatively, specializing in aged fish.

Tips for dining in Livorno

• Reservations: Popular trattorias are often full in the evenings and on weekends.
• Meal times: Lunch is served around 12.30–14.30 pm, and dinner is served from around 19.30 pm.
• Covered: A cover charge per person is common in Italy and is listed on the menu.
• Wine: White wines from the coast, such as those from Bolgheri or Elba, pair well with the fish – more information at Tuscany wines.

If you continue your journey along the coast, you will find tips under Coastal Tour Livorno – Cecina.

Looking for accommodation in Livorno? Find places to stay near the city center and the Lungomare promenade on Booking.com . Learn more about the city at Livorno – Sights and Tips and on the Livorno Province page.

Frequently asked questions about restaurants in Livorno